It’s 10 pm in Seoul, Korea and after so many PCR tests the past few days, ending the night seemed like a waste. However, not many places in Seoul open till late despite the relaxation of measures (back then). After fiddling with the Naver Map app, my friend found a place near Euljiro-3-ga station where we could get some beer. Little did we know, everyone else didn’t want the night to end as well.
To avoid the crowds, we chanced upon a small little Pojangmacha run by a grandma and her daughter nearby.
A Unique Experience
Despite my frequent visits to Korea, I never really found myself drinking in a Pojangmacha. This was probably my second or third time in one, and now during a pandemic no less.
Quick random fact: The Euljiro area has become pretty popular among Koreans due to the retro/newtro trend, with lots of old-school cafes to be found.
Walking at night along the main roads, you probably won’t come across the bustling nightlife that’s hidden within the alleys.
Inside the Pojangmacha, don’t expect clean floors and a 5-star experience. But, this is probably as authentic an experience you can get in Korea.
No one expected the weather to drop to 1 degree that night, so there wasn’t any heater within the tent. Yet, everyone was drinking with their coats on.
Thankfully, the tentage blocked much of the wind, and with the grandma cooking food at the side, it sort of felt warm. (Or was it just the alcohol or atmosphere?)
Korean Grandmas Are The Best
Ordering was done through Korean, so it’ll be good if you could speak a little Korean. However, they did have a physical menu, so the worst-case scenario would just be to point and say ‘이거요’ (yi-geo-yo).
You probably know how to order alcohol. The word soju is understood worldwide.
We ordered a bowl of Ramyeon, which was what we needed on a cold night. Immediately, the warm steam rose from the bowl and the soup is just perfect anju.
When it comes to Korean culture, the locals all agree that spicy food goes well with soju. This is why we ordered a plate of ‘오돌뼈’ (pronounced Oh-dol-bbyeo), which is spicy stir-fried cartilage.
And boy, was it spicy.
One bad point about dining in a Pojangmacha on a cold night is that your food tends to get cold really quickly. But you reach a point after a few shots of soju where you don’t care anymore and just need something to go with your alcohol, even if it means cold ramyeon soup.
During our time there, we saw groups coming in and out, with the Korean grandma remembering even some of her regular customers. One of them was too drunk and the grandma scolded him in a typical K-drama fashion and told him to get out and stop drinking (lol!)
They say Korean grandmas are really generous when it comes to food, and it’s true. We ordered a side of Korean egg roll, and God knows how many eggs she used.
Pojangmacha in Seoul
I would say drinking in a Pojangmacha is something everyone should try when in Korea. Just make sure to do your own precautionary measures, since places like this don’t really enforce it (e.g., choosing a seat that’s further away from others).
Also, make sure to have sufficient cash with you since they don’t accept credit cards at most Pojangmachas.
For anyone interested, you can get to this area via Euljiro-3-ga subway station. Just turn left once you come out from Exit 4.
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